Rare Recipe from Bryan Webb, Tyddyn Llan
Prior to moving to Wales, Bryan ran Hilaire in London, a restaurant highly acclaimed by the food guides. Bryan has continued to gather awards and accolades at Tyddyn Llan. His cooking is all about subtle flavours and an uncompromising attitude to sourcing the finest, freshest ingredients.
Apples : Apple Chutney / Tarte Fine aux Pommes
Autumn is now upon us, Grouse is already on the menu at Tyddyn Llan, the new season's leeks have arrived and in my back garden the orchard of apples and pears are in full bloom. It’s just a question of who is going to get there first, the birds or myself.
The apple was the first fruit of the world according to Genesis, but it was no Cox’s Orange Pippin. God gave us the crab apple and left the rest to man.
The row over English versus French has had much publicity over the last few years. Granted the French do grow a fine apple and make good cider and calvados and I do like to put a Golden Delicious in the fridge and eat as a snack very cold, but what about the English varieties?
At the height of the apple season in this country it’s difficult to find our home grown varieties amongst the Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Pink Fur and the American Melrose. It is probably down to the fact that their skins are not shiny and a perfect shape for the supermarkets. Where the Coxes or Russet have a soft and puckered skin - just peel them, they are intensely sweet, but behind that is a rich flavour like honeyed Sauternes. The Russet season does not last long but the Coxes will run and run, being at their best during November.
If I get to the apples in the garden first, I can see us squeezing lots of juice for a healthy and refreshing drink, making several Tarte Tatin (the upside down apple tart where the fruit is caramelised and soft sitting on crispy puff pastry), including them in the packed lunches, eating with pieces of Keen’s cheddar and bottling several jars of chutney, then I think I might be ready for some variation. In the mean time, it is going to be Russets and Ribstons, Coxes and Orleans Reinettes all the way.
INGREDIENTS - APPLE CHUTNEY
METHOD - APPLE CHUTNEY
INGREDIENTS - TARTE FINE AUX POMMES (serves 4)
METHOD - TARTE FINE AUX POMMES